« La Comédie »… La mémoire théâtrale de Fès compte ses jours !
Ses matinées sont lentes et flegmatiques. Sa clientèle se fait rare, se compte sur les doigts d’une main. Les grosses affluences et autres ‘’rush time’’ ne sont qu’un lointain souvenir. Le serveur se satisfait de servir les inconditionnels du »temple ». Le café ‘’la Comédie’’ rumine la monotonie du vide, l’amertume de l’abandon. Sous perfusion, l’établissement, situé dans une ruelle en plein centre-ville de Fès, à proximité d’une petite poignée de centres culturels qui ‘’animent’’ la ville, semble avoir déclenché le compte à rebours. Le rideau finira par tomber un jour !
Le café culturel et théâtral, créé par l’acteur Azzelarabe Al Kaghat en 1983, qui s’était inspiré d’un projet du même nom au cœur de la capitale française, est devenu au fil du temps un lieu de mémoire racontant les années de l’effervescence culturelle et artistique, la dynamique de la scène théâtrale locale et la fraicheur de la vie estudiantine. De longues années durant, le café demeura l’espace incontournable des rendez-vous quotidiens de l’élite culturelle de la ville et des troupes de théâtre. Un endroit très prisé aussi pour les préparations aux épreuves universitaires. Une sorte de pépinière pour des futurs cadres.
Des photos de pièces de théâtre marocaines et mondiales, des tableaux d’artistes-plasticiens meublent des murs qui cachent mal leurs rides. Une bibliothèque vitrée résiste au poids des trophées, des distinctions…et du temps. Un portrait de l’artiste et frère de l’initiateur, le regretté Mohamed Al Kaghat, se fond discrètement dans le décor.
Le lieu respire un air différent. Un parfum nostalgique enveloppe l’atmosphère et semble ajourner la décision inéluctable. Mettre la clé sous le paillasson n’est qu’une question de temps, après quatre décennies de loyaux services culturels.
‘’L’idée était de créer un projet culturel qui ne dégage pas de profit, mais qui arrive tout de même à couvrir ses charges. Aujourd’hui, je dois ponctionner sur mes revenus d’acteur pour que le café reste ouvert’’, confie Al Kaghat, qui semble avoir presque baissé les bras. D’autant que des cafés qui attirent d’habitude plusieurs fois le nombre de clients de ‘’La Comédie’’ vivent des jours durs. Résigné, il estime que le mouvement culturel et économique dans la ville fait que le modèle de ‘’La Comédie’’ est voué à la disparition.
Al Kaghat avait pris le pari de faire du café, construit sur deux niveaux, qui communiquent à travers un escalier circulaire à l’ancienne, un incubateur culturel et artistique à même de combler, bien qu’en partie, le manque au niveau des salles de cinéma et d’exposition. Le lieu a abrité des rencontres de cinéastes, des castings de films, des cérémonies de signature d’ouvrages, des soirées de l’art du Malhoun, des rendez-vous d’échange avec des hommes de lettre et des artistes. Une petite scène de théâtre a même été aménagée, mais le souffle de Sisyphe semble de plus en plus court !
La belle époque est décidément révolue. Sur le livre d’or du café, des sommités du théâtre marocain ont immortalisé leur passage. Hassan Lamnii, Tayeb Seddiqi, Touria Jabrane, TayebLaalaj et Abdelouahad Ouzri sont passés par là, pour ne citer qu’eux. ‘’La Comédie’’ était longtemps l’escale incontournable des invités des rendez-vous et autres évènements en lien avec le théâtre. Le café avait vu le lancement d’une plaidoirie pour commémorer, comme il se doit, le nom de feu Mohamed Al Kaghat, l’universitaire et l’artiste, qui prêtera des années plus tard son nom à la rue adjacente. Une victoire symbolique pour la famille Al Kaghat, dont l’art se transmet de génération en génération.
En attendant son triste sort, le café continue d’accueillir quelques-uns parmi les rares fidèles, dans l’espoir de raviver une flamme, allonger son espérance de vie.
Chaque jour à la même heure, Ibrahim Demnati, l’un des doyens de la scène théâtrale à Fès, vient renouer avec ses habitudes. Il salue furtivement ses connaissances, avant de se retirer dans un coin, prendre un café aux arômes du passé.
Il se souvient de jours lointains où le café accueillait des générations d’étudiants qui y trouvaient un espace d’apprentissage, d’échange et de préparation des cours et des épreuves dans une belle interaction. Aujourd’hui, ils se considèrent toujours comme les lauréats de cet espace. Demnati cite des conférences, des cercles de réflexion, des masters-class, des signatures d’ouvrages, en marge des festivals de théâtre. Il se rappelle de sa saison Ramadanesque, ses fameuses ‘’journées culturelles de La Comédie’’ qui attirait un public connaisseur autour de soirées de Malhoun, de conférences et de projections de nouveaux films.
‘’À ses heures de gloire, il était difficile d’y trouver une place. Le temps passe et l’absence des habitués se fait de plus en plus pesante. Lors du dernier festival, nous avons accroché les photos de ceux qui nous ont quittés. Ils étaient une trentaine. Le lieu vit aussi au rythme de ceux qui l’ont fréquentés’’. Des mots lourds de sens d’un sage parmi les sages, un artiste authentique.
Des rires viennent trancher avec la désormais torpeur des lieux, apporter un brin de gaieté, bien qu’éphémère. Le vieux serveur l’accueille par un sourire affectueux. L’actrice Loubna Mastourveille à chacune de ses escales à Fès à rendre visite à l’espace culturel et artistique de ses débuts.
‘’J’ai commencé à fréquenter La Comédie à l’âge de 17 ans. Et c’est là où j’ai attrapé le vrai goût de l’art. Il est devenu l’espace où j’ai pu tisser des relations artistiques qui m’ont aidé à réaliser mon rêve. Sa nostalgie me suit là où je vais’’.
Quel paradoxe ! Le café compte ses jours entouré par les références de la scène culturelle locale, le complexe Al Houriaet la médiathèque municipale, notamment. Azzelarabe Al Kaghat dresse la tête devant le portail orné de masques en référence au théâtre, exhale la fumée d’une cigarette et avec elle une lourde déception. Il ne peut cacher son désarroi en l’attente du jour où la mémoire collective artistique et culturelle de la capitale spirituelle rendra son dernier souffle. Le sifflement de la machine à café continue, lui, de résonner aux recoins du café…jusqu’à nouvel ordre.
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